Tip Sheets

Fast fashion millennial brands buckling under pressure from Temu and Shein

Media Contact

Adam Allington

Several of the OG fast fashion brands, including millennial favorites such as Billabong, Quiksilver and Volcom, filed for bankruptcy in early February. Forever 21 is also closing its headquarters, laying off employees ahead of rumored bankruptcy.


Denise Green

Director of Graduate Studies in Fiber Science & Apparel Design

Denise Green, director of the Cornell Fashion + Textile Collection. Faced with competition from even cheaper Chinese competitions such as TEMU and Shein, Green says the only constant in fashion is change.

Green says:

“Brands have two choices: (1) remain relevant to their initial target consumers (e.g., Millennials) and shift their design and brand narratives as those groups age (which ultimately means a change in the consumer’s aesthetic preferences and functional needs from clothing over time); or (2) stay committed to the young adult target market and design for the styles and retail preferences of these consumers.

“Consumers across all age categories are abandoning brick and mortar for the convenience of online shopping. When it comes to apparel in the e-commerce landscape, we can thank ever-improving online tools like virtual fitting rooms and algorithmic size recommendations for helping consumers find better fit with greater confidence. 

“The elimination of the quota system—that is, the Multi Fibre Agreement in 1994, and its successor, the Agreement on Textiles and Clothing in 2005–fueled the emergence of fast fashion brands in the mid-aughts. Without quotas, garment manufacturing was consolidated in countries with the largest populations and lowest wages. Lower prices became normalized in consumers’ minds, which has contributed to insatiable demand and the expectation of inexpensive apparel products.”

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