Cornell University's Department of Food Science has selected four commercial dairies as producing the highest quality milk in New York state.

Crowley Foods of Albany was named the state's top fluid milk processor, with an overall score of 84. The Niagara Milk Cooperative (Wendt's Dairy) of Niagara Falls scored 82.9; Upstate Farms Dairy of Rochester and Stewart's Processing Corp. (Saratoga Dairy) of Saratoga Springs tied for third place with 78.7.

Judging criteria included testing for butterfat and protein content; post-pasteurization bacteria counts within the milk's sell-by date; and vitamin levels.

Each year, random samples of whole, reduced-fat, low-fat and fat-free milk are evaluated by the program, which is funded by the New York Milk Promotion Order. All commercial milk processors in the state participate.

From July 1, 1997, to June 30, 1998, over 500 samples were collected and nearly 6,000 individual tests on the milk were run to determine the winners. The program is unique in that the milk is examined when it is received and again 14 days later, near the end of the sell-by date.

Trained testers taste each sample and give it a score, according to David Bandler, Cornell professor emeritus of food science, who was the director of the New York State Milk Quality Improvement Program from 1972 until last year. Kathryn J. Boor, Cornell assistant professor of food science, now is director of the program.

"New York has some of the best milk in the country," says Bandler, who explains the program is dedicated to improving the flavor, quality and shelf-life of milk. "Over the years, the program has really helped the industry."