Cornell Catering executive chef wins regional competition

Nery Trigueros-Gonzalez
Jason Koski/University Photography
Nery Trigueros-Gonzalez in the Robert Purcell Community Center kitchen.

As a member of the National Association of College and University Food Service (NACUFS), Cornell Dining is invited to send culinary staff to compete annually at the Northeast Regional Conference. This year, Cornell Catering Executive Chef Nery Trigueros-Gonzalez, CEC, CCA, was chosen, and he brought home the gold -- a first for Cornell.

To compete, the 18 regional contestants submit recipes for entrees in a food category; 10 of those are asked to prepare their submissions. While the flavor, nutritional value and seasoning of their dishes are paramount, the chefs are also judged on their cooking techniques, sanitation, plating, balance and cost. Each cook has one hour to prepare, cook and present the finished dish.

This year's category was "flat fish," to showcase what to do with a mild fish. Trigueros-Gonzalez chose to make "flounder two ways": as a flounder bisque with accents of California olive oil and fresh lemon juice and as a poached, vacuum-sealed fillet, served with cauliflower puree, Parisienne of zucchini and yellow squash, diced shallots, julienned roma tomatoes and slivers of kalamata olives and capers, laced with a beurre blanc sauce.

It sounds complicated, Trigueros-Gonzalez said, but for him, the secret is to "keep it simple." "Respect the ingredients, respect the product," he said. "Use seasonal vegetables and season well. You can do so much with all of the animal or fish, without waste."

Trigueros-Gonzalez even used the tail of the flounder as a garnish, flash fried in oil to have the look and texture of a potato chip. The entire dish, he said, was under 700 calories per serving.

Although it was his technique that was judged, Trigueros-Gonzalez said that his submission was a team effort. On the job, he oversees menu planning, food purchasing, meal production and logistics, and the hiring and training of new culinary staff, with fewer opportunities to actually cook than he had in previous positions. From the time he was invited to participate in the conference in December to the actual conference competition in March, his team in Cornell Catering, from sous to pastry chefs, gave him advice and feedback on his ingredients and food choices -- and covered for him while he was away.

"We have talented chefs in Cornell Catering who also cook with respect and passion for the ingredients they use, who care about nutrition and the environment, and who believe in buying local and sustainable products if possible," Trigueros-Gonzalez said. He noted that most of the food at many of the smaller venues, such as receptions and special luncheons that he caters, comes from within 100 miles of Ithaca.

"Winning the competition was not just a statement of my cooking techniques, but a statement of where we are going with our entire program," he said.

In July, Trigueros-Gonzalez will compete at the national conference in Boston against the five other regional winners. Each must prepare their winning regional entrée with only small changes allowed.