Top alumni restaurateurs share their recipes for success at New York City event
By John Mikytuck
Take one world-famous restaurateur, mix in a top TV celebrity chef, add two star-rated restaurant managers, fold in the host of a Food Network health show and finish it off with the general manager of an exclusive Manhattan hotel, and you've got "Epicures, Bon Vivants, Celebrity Chefs, Restaurateurs and Hoteliers," a panel representing today's new breed of food entrepreneur.
The sold-out panel, featuring graduates from Cornell's School of Hotel Administration (SHA) and College of Human Ecology now at the top of their fields, focused on trends affecting today's restaurant industry Dec. 6 at the Riverpark restaurant on the East Side of New York City.
"Escoffier was truly the first celebrity chef," said Dennis Sweeney, SHA '64, moderator of the event and a retired business partner in some of the world's most famous restaurants, including Windows on the World, the Four Seasons and the Rainbow Room. He was referring to Georges Auguste Escoffier (1946-1935), born in France and credited with creating modern French cuisine; yet few people, other than other chefs, have heard of him, noted the panelists, most of them chefs.
"I had an Escoffier poster on my wall," said Stephen Asprinio, SHA '04, chef, sommelier, restaurateur and Bravo's "Top Chef" star, who opened his first multimillion-dollar restaurant at age 25. "It read 'In the cuisine, there is truth." However, Asprinio agreed that "only foodies know of these people," but today, he added, "'Top Chef' is a huge brand," and television, especially the Food Network, has raised everyone's awareness of today's great chefs.
Speaking about celebrity chefs owning multiple restaurants, a trend in the industry, Katie Grieco, SHA Master of Management in Hospitality '97, vice president of operations for Craft Holdings owned by "Top Chef" judge and star chef Tom Colicchio, said it's important to manage customer expectations. "People in Dallas eat at one of our restaurants and expect to see Tom," said Greico. In reality, celebrity chefs can't be at every restaurant every night and "some people are disappointed," she said.
"Like sex, [a celebrity chef] is much better in person," said Shai Zelering, SHA '01, general manager of The London NYC hotel." Zelering, the sole hotelier on the panel, discussed partnerships between hotels and famous chefs. "Hotelies are lousy restaurateurs," said Zelering, so "if you're willing to give up control on an area of the hotel to a subcontractor," they better be a great partner. "I've seen a hotel make a significant investment in a commissioned star chef restaurant, only to turn into rubble after the first year."
Another trend the panel discussed was casual dining. "It's an exciting time for restaurants because of casual dining," said Will Guidara, SHA '01, general manager of Eleven Madison Park restaurant, a four-star rated fine dining restaurant. "Fine dining doesn't need to be stuffy," he said. "We've added personality to service, to give people a sense of comfort." Guidara said he's seen too many fine dining restaurants close because of the economy. "You don't have to be high class to be first class," added Sweeney, borrowing a quote from world-famous restaurateur Joe Baum '43.
The event, which also included panelist Ellie Krieger, HumEc '88, a dietitian and host of "Healthy Appetite" on the Food Network and Cooking Channel, was presented by the Cornell Entrepreneur Network, SHA and Cornell Wall Street alumni group.
John Mikytuck '90 is a freelance journalist, writer and producer in New York City.
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